Leather is a natural product and varies
in appearance depending on which part of the leather hide is
used.
The leather is the finest and most sturdy in the middle, the sides
are looser and thinner.
Upper side = The hair side is the nappa
side.
Underside = The flesh side is the suede
side.
Split = The leather hide is split and
the lower section is used.

DYEING
A leather hide is dyed in a tannery.
Generally all leather is dyed. A non-dyed leather hide is light
blue-grey. Because leather is a natural product dyeing can be
difficult and risky.
Aniline dyeing = thoroughly dyed leather without surface treatment.
Top dyeing = spray painted leather.
A leather hide can be both thoroughly dyed and its surface top dyed.
Leather can be printed with color or structure patterns. The surface
can be treated with lacquer or wax.
NAPPA
Nappa
is the upper side of the leather hide, simply expressed the hair
side. The surface structure / grain differs between various leather
hides.
Lamb nappa: Is thin and supple, the surface structure is even and
smooth. Lamb / sheep makes for light and soft garments.
Pig nappa: Is thin and strong, distinguishing features are small
holes which can be seen along the hairs / bristles on the surface
structure.
Goat nappa: Is strong and elastic in all directions, crossed fibers.
The surface structure has a distinct pattern.
Cow nappa: Includes both cow and buffalo. Strong and has a tight
firm feeling. The surface structure is smooth with a slight pattern.
SUEDE
Suede is the underside of leather,
Simply expressed the flesh side. The fringe / surface differs
between various leather hides.
Pig suede: Is strong and supple, the fringe is short and small dots
can be seen along the hairs / bristles.
Goat suede: Is strong and supple, the fringe short and tight.
PRINTED / EMBOSSED
The surface of leather
can be printed with pattern, with color or simply a structure
pattern. This occurs on both nappa and suede. Nappa often has small
irregularities, which can be concealed when the surface is printed
with a pattern.
Nubuck: The nappa side is used and is polished to have a velvet-like
surface, with a short fringe.
CARE / CLEANING
General care – Always hang a leather
garment on a well-formed clothes hanger. Dirt and dust gets easily
caught in suede fringe and fur suede. Brush the garment with a soft
brush or a piece of foam rubber that is not too thick.
- Polishing dust on suede exists more or less on all new garments– in order to remove this use a brush or a tape roller.
- You can press a garment – set the thermostat to silk or wool, press with a dry press towel, the garment must be dry.
- If cleaning is necessary contact a professional – Do not wash in a washing machine!
- With normal wear and good care a leather jacket can survive many years. One can say that there is no determined life span but the customer plays a big part in how “many years” it lives. It is important to know that the lining and other details on a leather jacket do not have the same life span as the jacket itself.
-
If the garment gets wet – hang on a clothes hanger and dry slowly at room temperature. If the garment feels stiff when it has dried rub leather against leather, brush with a garment brush or dry sponge (suede garments). Nappa garments tolerate rain if they are top dyed. If the leather is only aniline dyed and possibly waxed dark spots will appear. Raindrops will be absorbed but the spots disappear when the garment has dried.
Stains / fat stains
Stains / fat stains – On suede this can
be removed by covering the stain with chalk (scraped from ordinary
school chalk). Let the chalk absorb the fat, preferably overnight,
then brush off and rub leather against leather. On Nappa garments a
mild soap solution applied with a cotton rag or sponge can be used.
Ice cream = Fat stains may occur if it
contains dairy products with colouring matter. To remove – a
moistened cloth or possibly rinse with cold water, apply chalk and
let dry – brush or rub leather against leather.
Blood = It is important to immediately
rinse with cold water, apply chalk and let dry.
Food = Wipe off with a moistened cloth,
here fat stains often occur, apply chalk.
As always if this does not help contact a professional.
Stains / water soluble
Stains / water soluble – For example remainders of food without fat
can be removed with a moistened white cotton rag, afterwards gently
rub with a dry rag. Let dry and rub leather against leather.
Stains / more difficult
Stains / more difficult – that which cannot be handled by oneself
should be left to a professional for advice and for the appropriate
treatment.
Never use petrol or other solvents that can harm the color or the
garments surface finish.
WASHABLE SUEDE
-
Wash in max 30 degrees celcius.
-
Wash separate, do not mix with other colour or textiles.
-
Centrifuge the garment.
-
Mild detergent can be used (max 1 tsp per wash).
-
Do not use fabric softener.
-
After wash, hang the garment properly on a hanger.
-
Fold collar and lapel properly while drying.
-
Shoulderpads may need to be folded back to original position.
-
Stretch the seams carefully after wash.
-
Dry in a normal room temperature (not in drying cupboard). Will take up to appx 48 hours.
-
When garment is dried, it can be ironed carefully.
-
Iron with low temperature and use a cotton cloth between iron and suede.
-
Finally, a soft cloth brush can be used to get suede more silky.
Note! All new suede can have dye stuff or dust. Avoid using white clothes together with sharp suede colour first time garment is worn.
